made the table by repurposing an old mirror that I no longer wanted in my bedroom along with some 2 x 4’s.
The table came out better than I expected. I got the idea to make the table after seeing this dining table by Ana White. I loved the table, but didn’t have a need for it. I did however need a coffee table for my family room and used the table as my inspiration to make this coffee table. I wanted a substantial table and the size of the mirror fit the bill.
Here is the “before” of the mirror. I wrote about its replacement, here.
I am not one to submit to any particular style of decor or trend. I gravitate to many different decorating styles and like to mix it up in my home.
If I had to sum up my decorating style in one word, I couldn’t. It would have to be a few… Coastal, Casual, with a little Glam thrown in just to add a little bit of the unexpected.
This repurposed mirrored coffee table fits that description perfectly.
White adds the coastal vibe, making it with 2 x 4’s …. surely says casual and the mirror adds the glam factor. It all equals the perfect style for me.
“I DECORATE WITH MY HEART. IF I GET AN IDEA OR SEE SOMETHING THAT SPEAKS TO ME I MAKE IT WORK, KNOWING THAT IT WILL FIT INTO MY OWN STYLE.” – ME 🙂
HOW TO REPURPOSE A MIRROR INTO A COFFEE TABLE
- lumber: 5 – 2 x 4 x 8 | 2 – 1 x 4 x 8
- wood strips for underside for mirror safety
- miter saw
- drill bits
- sanding block
- sandpaper – 60/100/220 grits
- measuring tape
- Kreg Pocket hole Jig
- Kreg 2-inch and 2 1/2″ screws
- wood glue
- Spackle knife
- Primer/Paint/DIY chalk paint
- paint brush
For the repurposed mirror:
- CitraStrip paint stripper
- sanding block and sandpaper
- Rustoleum Driftwood Stain and paper towel
- Folk Art craft paint: Buttercup #905
I figured out how to make the table as I went along. I am not a master carpenter or furniture builder, but if I were to make another table here is what I would do differently:
- pick out the best 2 x 4’s that are straight, smooth, free of knots and raised swirl patterns
- pre-drill all holes
- prime all pieces and sand every edge and corner smooth before assembling
HOW TO STAIN WOOD TO LOOK SUNBLEACHED OR LIKE DRIFTWOOD
The mirror frame had 3 layers of paint that I stripped off using CitraStrip. Once the paint was removed, I was still left with a very red wood stain.
I sanded off as much as I could, but the red color was ingrained into the wood.
I went over it with Rustoleum stain in Driftwood. It lightened the wood, but the wood still looked too red. I wanted it to look more like the wood tray on the table. It needed more yellow to my eye…
…so I grabbed a bottle of yellow craft paint in the color Buttercup and rubbed it on top of theDriftwood stain. I wiped the excess off and when I did, it looked just as I hoped it would…the changes warmed up the color. You can see the difference on the horizontal portion of the frame.
After it dried, I rubbed clear Johnson’s wax over the frame and buffed to add a layer of protection.
HOW TO BUILD A TABLE BASE USING 2 X 4’S
My table’s measurements: Mirror is 32″ x 38″ Height of table is 18″
I made this table using the mirror as the size guide for the base. I didn’t have a set of plans and if you make this your measurements may need to be different.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes when cutting and working with wood.
1. Cut lumber to size needed:
- 4 – 2 x 4 @ 30-inches. Ends at 45 degree angles
- 4 – 1 x 4 @ 27-1/2″
- 8 – 1 x 4 @ 3-1/2″ squares
- 1 – 2 x 4 @ 29″
- 2 – 2 x 4 @ 26″ Ends cut at 23 degree angle
- 2 – 2 x 4 @ 13″ ends cut at 23 degree angle
2. Sand all cuts to smooth rough edges.
3. Pre-drill holes or use a KREG pocket hole jig to make assembling the table easy. Having this tool, made this table do-able for me. Without it, it would have been impossible for me to create strong joints.
I got the Kreg Jig R3 at a blogging conference. It is the best little gadget for joining wood EVER! It is so easy to use. To see how to use it, check out the Kreg website to watch a video.
You will need to create two identical side pieces for the table base. Construct one side first.
The center 2 x 4″s that cross are created by using 3 pieces of cut 2 x 4’s. The first is cut to fit on an angle from one top side to the opposite bottom. The second and third pieces are smaller cuts to make the “X”
WOOD CUTS AND MEASUREMENT DETAILS:
The two sides that make up the base are created with 2 x 4’s and 1 x 4’s. The angled cuts on the top and bottom 2 x 4’s are 45 degrees. The angled cuts to create the “X” are approx 23 degrees.
I first used wood glue to attach the cut wood as shown above. Once pieces were glued and dry, I used 2- 1/2″ wood screws to create solid wood joints. See lumber length measurements in supplies needed list.
Check for level by placing the two sides on mirror, then remove.
Using 2-1/2″ wood screws, attach the two sides with a 29″ long 2 x 4 to create table base as shown in photo.
It will look like this.
Prime wood. Run a line of caulk along all joints and smooth with finger. This will make the wood look seamless. Let dry. Paint
I was going to use chalk paint, but then realized I didn’t want to distress the table and have to wax and buff into all the tight angles on the base. I switched gears and used primer and Glidden latex paint in the color White on White in a satin finish.
HOW TO ATTACH MIRROR TO TABLE BASE
If you make a top for a table using solid wood, you will be able to drill screws into it anywhere to attach to the base. Since I didn’t want to break the mirror, I could only use the outer frame as a place to join it to the base. I added 4 – 3-1/2″ blocks using a 1 x 4 piece of lumber. I used 3 short wood screws to attach each to the corners of the frame.
I added a thin piece of molding in the center as a brace for the mirror. (I added two more braces on either side of this to add even more protection. I bought them at The Home Depot. Photo below.)
These blocks became part of the design as well as giving me something to be able to attach screws so I could attach the top securely.
Note: The frame around the mirror only has about 3/4″ to drill into without hitting the mirror. I made sure the angle of the screws would not cause them to penetrate too deeply and crack the mirror. Adding the 3-1/2″ square block to each corner on the underside of the mirror provides an attachment point for the screw.
1. Lay mirror right side down on flat padded surface.
2. Pre-drill two holes on each angled end of table base so that you will be able to countersink screws.
3. Attach using 2″ long wood screws. Make sure screw heads are below wood surface.
4. Spackle over holes, let dry, and then sand smooth.
5. Touch up with paint. Let dry.